Saturday, March 8, 2003

Can I Join The Army With A Lazy Eye



The "vanilla" in Concorezzo
All'inspiegabile really significant shortage of restaurants in the beautiful city of Monza (home, remember, a guru of wine as Meregalli, an impressive cheese shop and shop where the gentlemen there Picciuolo offer the amazing buffalo mozzarella that are personally in Caserta) contrasts with the great significance of delicious places in its immediate vicinity. Enough to remember the inn of the Good Conduct Ornago, or the splendid holiday in that of the Archinti Mezzago, home to a rare native varieties of asparagus.
To be precise, for a while 'for years, however, a nice restaurant was a small step on his way on the path of absolute quality. Gualtiero Marchesi these days is dealing with the most ups and downs, but, among its many merits, was to have left a huge crop of students, who learned from him the technical mastery and love for good things. Roberto Andreoni is one of them, and is the host that welcomes guests in its Via del Borgo, a Concorezzo (province of Milan, via Libertà 136, tel 0396042615 Closed on Sundays and Mondays for lunch, accepts all credit cards) . Basted in a beautiful courtyard (now a bit 'soon, but in summer you can mogul in the porch) in the old part of this town low-Brianza far from bad, the restaurant is characterized by extreme attention to detail and a cuisine based on the review of local tradition, not without winking or Piedmont francesizzanti still supported by a large brain.
First, there is a super wine list, organized with great intelligence and charm, full of large bottles and little known gems (also have our beloved Casale del Giglio Shiraz). The kitchen pulls
sincere applause. After an aperitif el'appetizer, you can choose one of the full menus, like the winter, including pumpkin and artichoke carpaccio with shaved Parmesan cheese with balsamic vinegar, truffles gianduiotto of Seirass with braised chicory (in summer you can still find delicious treats, but draped with a lovely watercress sauce), steak stuffed vegetables and a dessert choice, even more enticing menu Monza, where camping vanilla (pork sausage) and sausage (liver ) with leeks cooked with wine, great cannelloni with pork "as pizzoccheri, California cheek of veal, goat Montevecchia and sweet. There is a menu for strict vegetarians, and the paper, where you can order, by way of example, mullets and pie broccoli garlic oil and hot pepper ravioli stuffed with sweetbreads and onion sauce on vegetables, oxtail in mantle of Treviso with its reduction.
The rest I will save, since the menu changes with tremendous frequency. It does not change but the beauty of the cheese trolley, as well as the ability and desserts.
'll come out with about 50 or 55 € less.
(Free, Thursday, March 6, 2003)

Thursday, March 6, 2003

The Lonely Soul Poem By Armattoe



The drinking well in Milan and surroundings
Easier said than done half the sea, says an old adage.
to say: we can talk about all the wines we want, but if the bottles are not that be done?
You can go from the producer, who usually sells them: But what about tenants from the small but great weight production as Robert Voerman, which is immediately snapped up 30,000 bottles worldwide, and has not even thought for a minute to make it available to the company?
E 'must be to look so our wines in a wine, possibly well-stocked. Actually, in Milan and throughout the area we are spoiled for choice.
Firstly, without forgo the various Cotti, Furry, Peck, Vino Vino and Ronchi, we remember one of the most enchanting wine making citizens, the 'vin de N'Ombra Enoteca (Via San Marco 2, 026,599,650) . Edited by Cristiano Cora Bravo (animated, among other things, a passion for super condivisibilissima Amedei chocolate), it is a sort of mystical lair of wine and other good things, housed since 1973 in the former refectory of the Augustinian velvety frame, next to the beautiful church of San Marco. The store also has a website ( www.nombradevin.it ), which is possbile to explore (and buy) a huge amount of labels from all over the world, particularly with respect to France and Italy, from the Langhe Medoc . Beautiful selection of Champagnes, and imposing a series of Tuscan wines. If you are interested, then ques'enoteca protagonist of courses and cultural activities subject to food and wine. Not to be missed.
we should not mention Meregalli Giuseppe di Monza (province of Milan, Italy via 24, 039,324,940) , perhaps the greatest Italian importer of French wines. From 1856 (and later, in 1969, the year of birth of the importing company) who wants to find a Yquem Sauternes or a little effort can pay a visit to this beautiful store in the central street of the old city Lombard. More than 700 wines Meregalli proposed, again with France and Italy to make the lion's share, but with high attendance of the new, new world: imponentissima selection of sparkling wines from around the globe, just as important is the list of Cognac and Armagnac, is also of great age. The
Yquem can also be found in a small but well-stocked wine cellar of the sleepy Desio, Enopassione (province of Milan, via Ferravilla 24, 0362303852) , sent on for years by fans Picello brothers. Even here, there are many cultural activities: Redeemed Picello is tireless organizer of seminars and guided tastings in the Langhe or other sanctuaries our local enology. The store contains hundreds of the best bottles worldwide, with some rare Austrian Eiswein or Banyuls to act as a counterbalance to Rocca delle Macie or Barolo Silvano Casiraghi of Bussia Soprana, a great friend of the owners. Besides wine, the language of mother-in-law of Mario Fong and one mole of delicacies.
(Free, Wednesday, March 5, 2003)

Wednesday, March 5, 2003

How Much Fabric Needed For Bedding



Put one evening at dinner in the Italian capital of Muscat, including pupitres, bottles and soft lighting, warm and welcoming atmosphere of elegance. With such a device, you feel like that even the most purely culinary and height, with a kitchen and a selection of wines, able to recite the lion's share instead of being swallowed up by the element scenic, as is often the case.
So it was last Saturday, March 1, in which Cane was the scene of a major event. The town is so dear to Cesare Pavese - and all lovers of white muscat - has in fact seen the last of the few Italian cuisine and sip out of Sirio Maccioni, the ambassador royal kitchen of our overseas land with its many local named, Le Cirque. This sort
Canelles exactly was the fifth that Sirius, accompanied by his colleague Susy Mion, made in Italy. Clearly, we want to glue the company of his chefs, he often returns alone to his native Tuscany Montecatini in order to taste the dishes lovingly prepared by his female relatives, and, behold, therefore, come in great pomp from America Alain Allegretti, chef at the historic Cirque in New York; Regis Monges from Mexico City, chef and pastry chef, a sort of Iginio Massari overseas and, finally, Marc Poidevin, the kitchen is the room where the console games of Las Vegas.
All this, in order to succeed, he needed a raw material and suitable for an operations center.
This was not merely the seat of the historic cellars Agreement, a great man of sparkling wine in that of Canelli, with spacious rooms and gently intimate, colored in pastels. As for the raw material, impossible to reach America in decent condition, Sirius turned to an old fellow good friend: our Aimo Moroni, who, from his shining Milan club has provided the inspiration for adequate SUPPLY culinary chefs maccioniani.
The wine was generously supplied by the host contract (Canelli, prov. Asti, via Giuliani 56, tel. 0141823349), with the excellent incipit entrusted to Giuseppe Riserva 1997 Contract, a brut chardonnay and pinot noir (from the latter by the green bunting) giving the nose smells amazing, ranging from strawberry melon yellow and sip a lively, not too dry, perfect as an aperitif.
After a short stroll to the beautiful wineries in the area of \u200b\u200bpast and pupitres barrel when preparing the Cerequio Barolo, it starts the sumptuous dance. It begins with a simple plate, which shows the painstaking care of Sirius in little things as seemingly basic broth here is therefore the consommé with oxtail ravioli and foie gras crostini black truffle (it will be the truffle, po'il a dominant theme of the evening). A broth saporosissimo wraps two parcels of pasta that melts in your mouth, a company that is paving Bruschettini a slice of truffle half a centimeter high. If this is not revisited ... A tradition admirably throughout the water provides another vintage of the house, Joseph 1997 Contract Rosé, delicate peach and impressive, but cool and pleasant.
Then comes perhaps the dish that most impressed us, though it was a good race: Napoleon scallops with black truffle, spinach and port sauce. A bit 'of fresh spinach, a brown sauce and enveloping, and on top of a chest light pastry: opening, it turns out a small sculpture, scallop and truffle minutely stratified. A combination of bold flavors that, once again, turns into a landslide victory bet. A simple dish memorable.
's love for Sirius Indian curry is expressed in the grand scope that follows, the prawns with the Valencian rice curry sauce and mango chutney. The choice of material is excellent: the prawns are gigantic, hard, beautiful and delicious. Rice is a porzioncina refined the classic paella, while the chatni (name changed from British colonizers in chutney) is less aggressive than you might think, ideally marrying a new slug of that great rosé. Col
next pot is instead appeared Piedmont Chardonnay 2000 Savoy, where the aristocratic white cloth woody notes in no way the typical space smells of banana, pineapple and butter. The mouth is rightly fresh but rich structure that has every Chardonnay important respects, with the subtle aroma that goes very well with the seasoning of the dish as follows: the rabbit in Riesling whitebait and black truffle, a piattarello that mocks the French-speaking blanquette speak Italian but in the knowledge of composition and in the approach with small dumplings of dough. Excellent.
After a short intermezzo of sorbet with grappa (the honors at the family made them Bocchino, owner of Business since 1993), reach the scale that perhaps best of all expressed the belief and love of Sirius. Maccioni is a lover of boiled exaggerated, but at the same time wants to be original, why not do boiled duck? This result simple and fascinating. Sirius recommends that first sip of the broth with a spoon, a soup that you hear, is not made from the nut which are even testimonials from some well-known restaurateurs. To enrich the whole, a little 'truffle mustard and the pumpkin that has always been the family habit of doing at home, and goes well with this meat very tender, almost popular in his elementary school. It took someone like him to make it understand. It took a long draft of Solus For 1998, the vigorous Barbera d'Asti Contract.
sweet, here is the Paris-Canelli, baked by the volcanic Monges, a kind of artistic composition that sees overlap citrus, chocolate, chocolate and a savarin still a secret sweet dumpling goodness.
grand finale then the creme brulée, perhaps the most famous dish of Cirque: served in the cup is simply amazing, with a sip of this increasingly occurred De Miranda Asti Classic Method. The marriage of this hatred with the cream should be applied on the hand, it is so rich and sensual embrace their voluptuous, velvety soft propitiated by the power of this is that one of the greatest expressions of Muscat in the world.
Even a small effort for the pastries, surely among the best taste, and the drums of Grappa Cantina Privata Bocchino, gallery of real pleasure.
short, an evening of what should happen more often.
And we dare not imagine a society of Sirio Maccioni and Aimo Moroni to propose a capacity each. Meanwhile, we wish good luck to Sirius for its cafe society, and we just hope that there may often find Pià.
(Free, Tuesday, March 4, 2003, page 12)

Sunday, March 2, 2003

How Can I Get Legendary Pokemon In Pokemondeluge



Tuscan delicacies
already on these pages show our appreciation for the small and charming goodies that are offered to us under glass. If there seemed good at the time of the chillies Mongetto, today we have been bewitched by a product such as vegetable spreads.
Perhaps our views in this area are still without the black olive paste that you buy at the supermarket (often less than despicable, especially coming from Genoa), but a bit 'all over Italy looking with patience, can find real gems.
Years ago, we were struck by a certain jars Divizia Andora, the Riviera di Ponente: clap their hands and now the cream of vegetable Court Sant'Andrea, a company located in Certaldo so that famous for onions (province of Florence, Via Trento 10, tel 0267381974 - commercial offices are in Milan-) .
First, it is very good fits to their line crostini: chicken liver is the classic sauce of toasted Tuscan wild boar is the cream (amazing to try the homemade bread), the pheasant and hare. All fascinating.
As for vegetables, we cite one example, the artichoke, really suitable for radiant and delicious canapés. It is not over: The company also provides for a wide range of pickles theory for every taste: from English Bonito del Norte tuna with eggplant, the sumptuous and gargantuan grilled artichokes (really excellent).
There are also jams and sweet preserves, select paste, extra virgin unfiltered and, although we have not tested, the company also sells its own brand name a small selection of red and white wine, a vin santo, and even a sparkling wine.
But you can very well stop the delicacies under glass, and especially with that delicious cream of wild boar and traditional.
(Free, Saturday, March 1, 2003, page 14)

Friday, February 28, 2003

Herpes Or Pilonial Cyst?



The torpedo Como
sturgeon except, you know what is the biggest fish that swims in inland waters in Europe? If you are not aware, I say us, is the catfish (Silurus glanis), up to 3 meters long, equipped with distinctive wattles.
If we talk about here, the shrewd reader will think, there must be a torpedo of culinary uses. And if many people, inspired by current entries, Pescioni believe that this is not edible, we have preferred to see for themselves. And the surprise we had to Swirl , restaurant Mandello Lario (province of Lecco, via Provinciale 165 loc. Olcio, tel. 0341732546, closes on Sunday evening and Monday, accepts all credit cards, the Reservations are strongly recommended) , Favor treated in strict family by spouses Fasoli. While the head is in the room to take care of the service and wines (often aided by his son Richard, called Curly), it is the lady in the kitchen, without any intrusion, to prepare for no more than 25-30 guests one of the finest Lake Como experiments in an area far from stingy .
Sitting in one of two beautiful rooms, choose a wine with a remarkable paper and light meals and inviting, the result of the review of local cuisine lakeside.
First, there is a menu of the lake at 50 € (prepared for the whole table), which includes spiral of catfish in sweet and sour (here it is, the light balls!), Noodles with char, black olives and tomatoes, white wine to whitefish, pike and lentils with coriander, a dessert choice and coffee. Or if you are at least two and amuse you with a single dish, friendly, there is padelada of the lake, the first book, a sort of interpretation of Manzoni's paella Valenciana, lake fish and rice provided pilaff yellow.
If you prefer the other, there is a la carte menu, almost exclusively fish. You can start with the salad of smoked eel and spicy blue cheese (tasty and substantial, increasingly intriguing with a drop of that oil that the owner draws from his olive trees here in Olcio), or the marinated trout with chives, or even with the bowl of fish sauce, red pepper.
Among the former, he amazed us missultàa the simple goodness of spaghetti, that is, with sauce or missoltino missultin, the agony of the lake put out to dry ( mis sut ul tin): a modern and traditional, full of charm. Noteworthy too is the soup Como, or the buckwheat pancakes and whitefish with cream of broccoli.
as the main course, our torpedo Here comes again, brought in pieces on a bed of cabbage and mustard: very good, with a great white from Alto Adige. If you prefer, you can taste but also very typical perch golden thyme, char with saffron, or if carnivores with a vengeance, the lamb chops with herbs. Sweets excellent, headed by closing clamps 300. You'll spend
between 40 and 45 €, with happiness.
(Free, Thursday, February 27, 2003, page 29)

Thursday, February 27, 2003

What Should Be The Bilirubin Level At 8 Days Old



Bitto, magnuca
and platter from which we are admirers of the cheese world and the microcosm of the Valtellina, we could not fall in love dairy products of our valley. There are perhaps thousands
cheese coloring the map of our country, and a variety that competes vigorously with the one fielded by our cousins \u200b\u200bacross the Alps. Lombardy it is a good illustration: we have so much blue cheese (with a specification too broad) as the Taleggio cheese (as above), so the provolone of the Po Valley as the goat of the Brianza Como, I formed the de mut, the strachitund, not to mention the immense bagoss.
And we said, we have the cheese of Valtellina, consumed locally but elsewhere increasingly popular, and even in Switzerland - where I also go crazy for the local wine Sassella -. The bigwig has always bitto, produced exclusively in the summer, he sees a small amount of goat milk to join the brown Alpine cows. Only instead of cow's milk is another great champion, the dairy: both can withstand prolonged seasoning, and give tasty morsels and spicy to taste a glass of effort. If
on other occasions we rightly extolled the legendary shop in Morbegno Ciapponi, today we want to point out the excellent work of thirty years has held the Dairy Delebio Valtellina (Sondrio, Via Stelvio 139, tel. 0342685368) . There are about one hundred farmers give their cows' milk in this cooperative, so the work comes from their wide range of cheese, the dairy in this country: the entrance to the Valley.
We like to point out the first platter, that soft cheese that is part of the family scimude and with excellent value for money, we also find it on the counter of our supermarkets is a cheese soft, the white rind, fresh and pleasant in its simplicity.
The presence of greater prestige, however, is that of Bitto, aged 70 days and produced in the mountains with all the trappings of tradition. Very good is also the dairy, premiered at Milan's Salone dei Sapori 2001, rich and sweet, less blood cousin but very rich and personal. Also interesting are the
magnuca (or magnocca) Valchiavenna semi-cooked cheese, very similar to casolet; Delebio and dairy, a little 'the designer of the product.
To return to the softer cheeses, in addition to the platter you can taste the scimud very classic, soft white cheese and typical of these cliffs, or the Bormio, small formaggella original, as the name implies, the upper valley, or yet another formaggella springs, baitel. They also
simple ricotta and salt and a small selection of goat cheeses, including the formaggella is worth mentioning, the flat, the log and the Matusch (mixed cattle and goat to semi-hard).
Free, Wednesday, February 26, 2003)

Wednesday, February 26, 2003

Normal Heamatocrit Dogs



Our afternoon saw a visit by Emilio Bolciaghi , excellent butcher in that of Magenta. The purpose of the irruption: procure a piece of beautiful bacon in white wine, a favorite of ours ever.

Tuesday, February 25, 2003

Wedding Rsvp Card Wording Dietary Requirement



Friday, March 7, 2003 all 'Antica Osteria di Scarpet Gialdi (Cassano Magnano-VA-, Mazzei street 10, tel. 0331282325) , the undersigned will present and taste a variety of wines offered in conjunction with a sra dinner whose proceeds go entirely to the Association of Volunteers in International Service. During dinner, speak to a manager AVSI a brief testimony.
The dinner, which costs € 60, will be structured as follows:

- slices of swordfish flavored with lemon
quiche - ham mousse Sardinian pigeon
Podere Saulino Gavi DOCG 2001 (The Saulino, Novi Ligure)

- black spots salmon with radicchio drawstring
Costa Giulia 2001 (Michele Satta, Castagneto Carducci)

- Suede jugged with polenta
Knight 1999 (Michele Satta, Castagneto Carducci)

- Baked Hot Chocolate sauce on mirror English
Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC Ramandolo 2000 (Giovanni Dri)

flock. Meanwhile, I take this opportunity to point out the nice site Paul Meneghin and the Papillon Club Rovigo .

Monday, February 24, 2003

Gpsphone Cheats Eingeben



While I still have not written new articles, you propina my personal ranking of dessert wines and meditation, the type of wine that more to my taste:

1. Alto Adige Gewürztraminer raisin Terminum 1999 (Manufacturers Termeno).
2. Acininobili 1999 (Fausto Maculan).
3. Alto Adige Bianco Passito Comtess' Sanct Valentin 2000 (Manufacturers San Michele Appiano).
4. Tal Luc 1999 (Lis Neris)
5. Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit Rosazzo Reserve 1998 (Livio Felluga)


to propose only five hours there, very limited selection.
I take this opportunity to revive an old review of Passito Terminum, and to again thank the great Willi Sturz for their work.

In Alto Adige a great past
In spite of some extraordinary exploits in the field of Pinot Nero, Alto Adige, in the collective imagination as much in real life, contend that the land remains in the palm of his vocation for Friuli white wines Italian. Whether from international grapes such as Pinot Blanc, the gray, Chardonnay and Sauvignon, or Gewürztraminer or from the more traditional crossings like Kerner, Alto Adige whites are able to compete with the best international standards.
The competition is even fiercer since then the producers have decided to use the types and Passito Late Harvest, in the specification of the DOC Alto Adige wines sorties are able to match (or exceed) the best Picolit.
One such example, the Passito Terminum Gewürztraminer, which, after the first interim harvest, is increasingly emerging as the masterpiece of Willi Sturz, kellermeister of Winery Tramin (Province of Bolzano, Strada del Vino 122, tel. 0471-860126) . The South Tyrolean
aromatic grape lends itself, with its thick skins, withering and noble rot. The year 1999, the paper less favorable than the sensational 1998 has produced a wine of great impact, which also exerts its attraction to the eye, with its warm and welcoming color of old gold.
The scents are true symphony of subtlety and persistence, with notes of grape varieties that tend to turn to the yellow fruit in tropical and infinite nuances. The mouth is a sweetness almost explosive, with a good acidity that fatness, avoiding the risk of ambush stucchevolezza, you become a smiling sun and sensuality. Add an unparalleled finesse and persistence on the edge of reality and draw conclusions.
(Available February 2002)

Sunday, February 23, 2003

Fotos Da Mulheres Nuas



With this post I officially start my journal publications on food and wine online, which collects as leaving my interviews and reviews that I realize for the newspaper Libero, the weekly Life, periodicals and The Papillon Italian Sommeliers (official organ of the Italian Sommeliers). Their
trait d'union is the discussion of good things, restaurants, wines.
I hope you enjoy reading.

It 's the heir of the noble Nebbiolo Barolo
Admittedly, we speak almost in awe of Barolo. We followed
always escape the controversy that accompanied a tad sterile in recent years the existence of the eldest son of this noble Nebbiolo: fights rough, vehement between opposing factions of tenants of different intentions.
On the one hand, supporters of a new way of seeing the Barolo (especially Elio Altare) the other, the standard bearers of tradition, vinification of Nebbiolo according to the school of the fathers (Bartolo Mascarello). I really do not care who wins, because there is no doubt excellent Barolo made by both schools, as there are poor in both groups, either through an excess of modernity and barrel, casks want to old, decrepit and too " traditional. " Just
between traditional Barolo to be found bottles of 1996 vintage that, unlike the noble, concentrated wonderful 1997, gave the most suitable austere tannins producers of the old guard, authors of large bottles.
truly royal is Barolo Riserva 1996 Falletto of Bruno Giacosa Neive (province of Cuneo, Via XX Settembre 52, tel.017367027) , a large, wily old man who knows better than fifty years of his pockets the Secrets of Nebbiolo. Besides the great Barbaresco, Barolo is, therefore, to remember this, a native of a mythical crus in Serralunga d'Alba. Matured in barrels for four years, is a wine of terrifying power but haughty and intriguing, intense garnet color that does not leave any doubt of identity. Speaks to the nostrils of violet, dried rose, incense, tar and black cherry in alcohol, while in the mouth gives us a sip rich, smooth and wide as the scent, simply imperial. A wonderful wine on jugged hare or civet, the pheasant, on plates of appropriate lineage.
(Free, Saturday, February 22, 2003, page 12)

ERRATA: Barolo is the date of the article on February 22, 2003, not 2002 as erroneously written.